Saturday, December 31, 2016

Pancetta

I've long known of pancetta as the unsmoked cousin of American bacon. Aside from both being made from pork belly, trying to compare the two is like trying to compare popcorn with Frosted Flakes. While the two come from the same source, the treatment and method of production creates a completely different product. While bacon is delicious in its own right, it banks on smokey wood chip to achieve its flavor.. Pancetta on the other-hand is flavored delicately with aromatics and warm spices allowing mainly the pork flavor to come through, slightly perfumed.

I used to think that pancetta was mainly a cured meat product to be used for cubing up and putting into soups and spaghetti alla carbonara. While those are certainly, perfectly good uses, pancetta's repertoire can go much further beyond. Sliced thin, pancetta can be fried up or topped onto lean cuts of meat like loins or poultry before being placed in the oven to give a richer flavor and keep moisture in. Unlike bacon though, pancetta is delicious eaten as is, without the addition of heat. Sliced paper thin, and let allowed to come to room temperature, the fats in the meat melt when placed in the mouth. The flavors are delicate and can be reminiscent of fine prosciutto, in texture and saltiness, but with a little more flavor as prosciutto tends to only be seasoned with salt.

In Italy, most Pancetta sold is the stesa, or unrolled style, where as in the US, the majority of what's sold is the arrotolata or rolled style. Evidence shows that this cured cut goes as far back as the ancient Romans and that in the middle ages it accompanied sailors across long, ocean-going voyages. However you choose to enjoy it, like me, you'll likely find  that it's a delicious and worthwhile endeavor. Here was my recipe and procedure. Happy eating.

Combine spices and grind into a paste in a mortar and pestle.
While not necessarily required, remove the skin layer, leaving as much fat as possible.
Massage for a min and put parchment paper with weights on top in rectangular container.
Turn every other day. This is what it should look like after a week.
Rinse off the salt and spices and dry with some paper towels.
Roll as firmly as possible to avoid getting air pockets in the center.

Start at one end and work your way down with a butcher's knot.
Weigh and label your meat before putting it into the curing chamber.
I patiently wait for a little over 3 months for the meat to lose 35% of its moisture.
Portion out and vacuum seal. Some to be sliced thin and eaten as is, some to be cooked with.
Enjoy with your other home cured meats!

Monday, August 29, 2016

Terrine

The word terrine originates from the French terrin or earthen pot, the vessel used to make this traditional mix of meat (or vegetables) with fat and aromatics. Falling under the staple category of forcemeats in charcuterie land, it's a dish traditionally served cold and designed to be long lasting as nitrates are typically added. The main difference between a terrine and pate is coarseness. Either coarsely ground or chopped, a terrine has distinguishable ingredients layered or intertwined, whereas a pate is homogeneous. Typically, in France, terrines are made of game meat like venison, or pheasant, and usually also include pork. It's the primary way these game meats are eaten in France. Of course, they can be made simply with pork alone, or complexly with wrappings like bacon, caul fat or pastry, exotic ingredients, and lengthy aspic (think consommé + gelatin) layering sessions. These are techniques used by the likes of Carême in the early 19th century invented for the royalty of the time. While I feel like terrines were seldom seen in the United States 20 years ago, they seem to be gaining in popularity along with charcuterie in general, possibly due to the exposure that the internet affords. Take this chefsteps video for example, on which this recipe is heavily based. There are tools available today that make these formerly advanced recipes foolproof. The ingredients are all readily available if you look hard enough. Nothing to be afraid of...

Recipe:
5 g Yellow mustard seed
5 g Coriander seed
3 g Black peppercorns
2.5 g Allspice
1.5 g Clove
30 g Salt
3 g Pink salt
1.1 kg Pork shoulder
400 g Pork liver
300 g Pork fat
75 g Bread, crust removed
100 g Egg, about 2 whole
75 g Milk, whole
150 g Dried white nectarines
80 g Brandy, or dessert wine
3 g Thyme, fresh, chopped

Special equipment:
Terrine mold
Sous-vide wand
Vacuum food sealer (optional)


The difference between fresh and store bought eggs: